Kajian Pustaka Pemutih Kulit dari Bahan Alam serta Formulasinya dalam Sediaan Nanoemulsi
Abstract
ABSTRACT: Preparations containing whitening agents work by targeting the tyrosinase enzyme and interfering with melanin synthesis. Melanin is the end product of melanogenesis that gives the skin its brown or black color. Nanoemulsion is a carrier system, measuring 10-200 nm which is capable of bringing bleaching agents to penetrate into the stratum corneum to produce tyrosinase inhibitory activity on target cells, namely melanocytes. This Systematic Literature Review (SLR) aims to determine the skin whitening activity of several natural ingredients and to determine the nanoemulsion formulation as a carrier system for skin whitening agents. This Systematic Literature Review is a systematic way to obtain information by collecting, critically evaluating, integrating and presenting findings from several research studies. Based on the IC50 value, the compounds that have activity to inhibit the tyrosinase enzyme are alpha mangostin (IC50 9.94 mg/mL), artocarpine (IC50 30.2 mg/mL), epigallocatechin gallate (IC50 66.28 ppm), oxyresveratrol (IC50 107.91 ppm), resveratrol (IC50 170.93 ppm) and flavonoids (IC50 199.98 ppm). The nanoemulsion formulation of natural ingredients extracts produced good nanoemulsion characteristics, where the nanoemulsion formula of mulberry root extract consisting of 2% VCO oil phase, 18% mixture of tween 80 and PEG 400 (1:1), and 80% water was able to produce a size the smallest droplet is 81.61 nm and the PDI value is 0.22.
Keywords: Nanoemulsion, Extract, Tyrosinase Inhibitor, Skin Whitening.
ABSTRAK: Sediaan yang mengandung agen pemutih bekerja dengan menargetkan enzim tirosinase dan mengganggu sintesis melanin. Melanin merupakan produk akhir melanogenesis yang memberikan warna coklat atau hitam pada kulit. Nanoemulsi merupakan suatu sistem pembawa, berukuran 10-200 nm yang mampu membawa zat pemutih menembus ke dalam lapisan stratum korneum untuk menghasilkan aktivitas hambat tirosinase pada sel target, yaitu sel melanosit. Systematic Literature Review (SLR) ini bertujuan untuk mengetahui aktivitas pemutihan kulit dari beberapa bahan alam dan mengetahui formulasi nanoemulsi sebagai sistem pembawa agen pemutih kulit. Sistematic Literature Review ini merupakan cara sistematik untuk memperoleh informasi dengan mengumpulkan, mengevaluasi secara kritis, mengitegrasikan dan menyajikan temuan dari beberapa studi penelitian. Berdasarkan nilai IC50, senyawa yang memiliki aktivitas menghambat enzim tirosinase adalah alfa mangostin (IC50 9,94 mg/mL), artocarpin (IC50 30,2 mg/mL), epigallocatechin gallate (IC50 66,28 ppm), oksiresveratrol (IC50 107,91 ppm), resveratrol (IC50 170,93 ppm) dan flavonoid (IC50 199,98 ppm). Formulasi nanoemulsi ekstrak bahan alam rata-rata menghasilkan karakteristik nanoemulsi yang baik, dimana formula nanoemulsi ekstrak akar murbei yang terdiri dari fase minyak 2% VCO, 18% campuran Tween 80 dan PEG 400 (1:1), serta 80% air mampu menghasilkan ukuran droplet paling kecil yaitu 81,61 nm dan nilai PDI 0,22.
Kata Kunci: Nanoemulsi, Ekstrak, Inhibtor Tirosinase, Pemutih Kulit.
Keywords
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DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.29313/.v0i0.29918
